‘Jane Birkinification’ – the latest vintage handbag trend

A new trend for well-used bags handbags has emerged since the sale of the late actress Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin bag.

Although rather battered, the original Hermès Birkin bag sold for an eye-watering 8.6 million euros (£7.48 million) in July 2025, smashing the previous record for a Hermès White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28, which sold for 513,040 dollars (£381,538) in 2021.

Meg Randell, auction house Bonhams’ Head of UK & Europe for Fashion and Handbags (bonhams.com), says that since the Birkin bag sale handbag lovers are favouring personalised, well-used bags, where signs of wear or customisation are seen as desirable.

Randell says: “At the same time, while ‘Jane Birkinification’ has gained traction, largely through social media, buyers should remain mindful of core factors such as design and overall condition, particularly if resale is a consideration.

“While trends can influence short-term demand, long-term value is closely tied to the enduring appeal and quality of the item.”

Randell also says there is also renewed interest in “quiet luxury” and 90s/00s nostalgia. She said: “This shift has increased demand for brands like Bottega Veneta and Loro Piana, along with interest in Haute Couture and fashion pieces by Galliano that are all performing well at auction.

“A Chanel classic flap bag used to be about half the price of a Hermès Birkin or a Kelly but now it’s almost the same price, so buying a new Chanel bag doesn’t mean an investor can sell it for more. However, if they hold on to it, the secondary market is following that price increase, not as strongly, but it will keep going. Chanel is very steady.

“This year, the retail price of a new Chanel medium Classic flap bag has surpassed £8,000. On the secondary market, authentic pre-owned medium flap bags typically achieve between £3,500 and above £6,000 at auction, with value largely influenced by condition, age and rarity.

“By comparison, retail pricing for the Hermès Birkin starts at approximately £8,500-£9,500 for Birkin 25 or 30 models in Togo leather. Similarly, the Hermès Kelly generally begins around £7,000-£9,000 for smaller or mini sizes, increasing to £10,000-£13,000 for standard sizes depending on the leather and hardware specifications.”

The importance of valuations

As there is no slowdown in the handbags market, Robert Read, Hiscox Head of Art and Private Clients, suggests owners should arrange valuations at least every three years.

He said: “It’s still a growing market and people need to remember that the value of their handbags is likely to have risen.

“Nowadays it is not unusual to find people with a huge collection of handbags. A decade ago, if you had half a dozen handbags, they might have been worth £20,000 in total. We now find people have handbag collections worth more than a £1 million.

Read said: “The luxury sector, everything you can wear, drink or drive, has really gone gangbusters in recent years. The luxury sector has been brilliant at marketing, dominated by big brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Chanel.”

Read also suggests exhibitions such as the recent V&A Museum Chanel exhibition and Bags: Inside Out also feed people’s minds with the desirability for vintage handbags.

He said: “In the last year the value of the most desirable handbags has gone through the roof. Exhibitions at incredible institutions validate that handbags are now collectible and have a seriously recognised value.

A reminder over safety

Read says that with desirability comes the risk of theft. He said: “Unfortunately, handbags become targeted by thieves and, like watches, they can be resold fairly easily.

He said: “A handbag is not attached to its owner all the time. People have got to change their mentality about handbags.

“If I said put your valuable vintage ring under the table in a restaurant you would think that was ridiculous – but it’s what so many people do with their handbags.

“To thieves, a bag is as desirable as your jewellery, but it is not well protected as jewellery. Generally, a handbag is not locked in a safe at night because most safes aren’t big enough. It's left in a dressing room, living room, hallway or kitchen.

“I also suggest don't walk in the wrong part of town with your handbag that’s worth £25,000, you risk being targeted.”

As values rise and handbags become more collectible, thinking about how they are protected – not just how they are stored or carried – becomes increasingly important.

Insuring your handbag collection

Whether you are a long-term collector or new to buying handbags, rising values of rare and sought-after pieces highlight the importance of regular valuations.

Insurers typically recommend obtaining a professional valuation at least every three years in today’s market – although it’s important to check your policy wording and insurance schedule for specific requirements. Valuations are usually needed for insurance purposes and based on retail value.

It’s also worth considering how you would want a piece replaced in the event of a loss. For some, a modern equivalent may be appropriate (New Replacement Value), while others may prefer an antique replacement (Antique Replacement Value).

Keeping a clear record of your collection can also help support any future claim. This might include

• Photographs of each item

• Up-to-date valuations

• Related documentation i.e. provenance documentation

Sharing valuations with your broker is also a good idea, whether or not your insurer requires it.

For guidance on insuring handbags and other collectibles, you can speak to our Private Client team on 020 8256 4901 or email privateclients@howdeninsurance.co.uk

About The Birkin bag

Jane Birkin’s original Birkin bag came about in 1981 when the Hermès chief executive Jean Louis Dumas sketched it on an Air France sickbag while Jane Birkin, in the next seat, voiced that she needed a bag with pockets. From Birkin’s practical idea came the height of luxury.

Birkin donated the bag for auction to support the fight against AIDS in 1994 and it was acquired in 2000 by Catherine B, Hermès and Chanel bags collector and owner of Les 3 Marches boutique in Paris.

The one million euros (£860,000) opening bid for the original Birkin bag saw nine bidders competing in a 10-minute battle. The bag was sold to a private collector from Japan.